I apologise for it being quite a while since I updated the site, but I’ve been busy behind the scenes working on an upcoming book on trammel routing and an E-book on the Rotex. Today’s post is all about the new Festool Paper “Granat” which would have hit the shelves at your local Festool dealer a few months ago. I hadn’t had a lot of time to test it until an opportunity presented itself recently where a client of mine had a problem with some marble that needed some love and Granat proved the perfect solution.
Read the full article with the technique on how to polish stone with Granat here.
This new hybrid abrasive is impressive and I’ve found that it lasts nearly twice as long as Brilliant and Rubin on timber, Corian and stone.
Have a read and let me know what you think.
As usual, your questions and comments are appreciated.
One of the more common questions I get on a weekly basis in the shop has to do with the best was to sharpenhand tools. We have the Tormek T7 and T3 sharpening systems the shelf and whilst they’re excellent units, the price does end to put a lot of people off.
I’m a hand sharpener and use a combination of diamond plates, Japanese water stones and a leather strop to sharpen all my chisels and hand planeblades.
If I’m reworking a very dull chisel I’ll usually start with a coarse diamond plate of around 320 grit which is particularly good for removing any nicks or small chips from the blade.
I’ll then move up to a 600g, then an 800 plate, 1200 plate and a 2000g plate. From there I move up to a 4000g Japanese water stone and then finish with a leather strop dressed with honing compound. At every stage of sharpening I always sharpen the bevel, then flip the tool over and flatten the back.
I find that this process gives me a uniform mirror finish on the tool which stays sharp for a long time,( depending on the timber).
The biggest issue nearly all of us have had when learning to sharpen is to figure out the best way to set the angle of the chisel or plane blade so that we can get accurate and repeatable results. There are a mountain of jig systems available to help you set the angle but I’ve found that a simple jig which you can make up yourself offers one of the best and most cost effective solutions available.
The plan for the Deneb Puchalski Angle Setting Jig features on the Lie Nielsen Australia website, but for convenience you can click here for a direct link to the plan and here for a direct link to the really useful Lie Nielsen sharpening guide.
As always your questions and comments are appreciated.
Well the new TS55R is here and I’ve finally had a chance to have a bit of a play with one. Mechanically, it’s the same as the old TS55 with no changes to either the motor size or electronic components.
The major changes are to the body of the saw with the new flat side design enabling you to cut within 12mm of a wall, or, by laying the saw on its side you easily and quickly undercut skirting boards and door frames to allow for floating floors.
You’ll also notice the change to the riving knife with the new rounded tip fitting into the saw cut more easily. The riving knife is also now in a sealed compartment of its own so you don’t have to worry about it getting clogged with swarf.
There is now a clear viewing port at the front of the blade so you can clearly see where you’re cutting. The clear port is removed and replaced with the newly designed splinter guard for splinter free offcuts.
The measuring scale has been completely revised with a dual scale and pointer showing the cutting depth both with,(FS), and without the guide rail.
The black knob to the right of the scale is another new feature. It’s use to calibrate the blade depth. When you put a re-sharpened blade blade on the saw, set the scale to zero and plunge the saw, (without the power on), then turn the turn the knob until the tip of the place touches the work surface.
One important point to remember with the new TS55R is that owing to the body changes it will no longer fit the CMS saw table. There is a new plate on the way as well as an adapter kit to retrofit existing CMS, TS55 modules.
I’ll post more info as it comes to hand.
That’s all for now, remember to be safe and have fun.
I spent a few hours yesterday down at the Lie Nielsen Australia hand tool event at the RMIT furniture workshops in Orr st, South Carlton where the irrepressible David Eckert, from Lie Nielsen Australia and Henry Eckert fine tools and Chris Vesper, of Vesper Tools are displaying and selling their outstanding ranges of tools.
Hopefully the photos below will wet your appetite and you’ll be able to get down there before they close at 3pm today, (Sunday)
Some offerings from Chris Vesper!
An assortment from Lie Nielsen
More from Lie Nielsen
Hand Plane Heaven !!!!!
I hope that you like the photos and if time and your budget permits, that you get the chance to go and have a look. Otherwise, follow the highlighted links above to go to both the Lie Nielsen, Henry Eckert and Chris Vesper Websites and browse their collections at your leisure.
I feel that one of the keys to enjoying your woodwork is to find the right balance between hand and power tools. Adding pieces from the collections shown above will certainly go a long way in helping you achieve that.
As always, your questions and comments are appreciated.
For those readers who have either purchased or are contemplating the purchase of the new Festool Domino DF 700, I’d highly recommend that you click here, to download the supplamental manual for this awesome machine.
The manual, which was commissioned by Festool USA offers a clear and concise overview of the DF700 and will make it a lot easier to understand all the functions of the machine.
Hope you enjoy and as always, your questions and comments are appreciated
If your serious about your woodworking, as well as your power tools I’m fairly certain that you’ll want to add a few of the outstanding Lie Nielsen hand tools to your collection. For those of you who aren’t aware of Lie Nielsen they are regarded as the “Festool” of hand tools. As a proud owner of a couple of Lie Nielsen planes, from personal experience I can vouch for the fact that they’re awesome to use.
This weekend, (the 7th and 8th of July) Lie Nielsen Australia are holding a hand tool event at the RMIT University School of design which is located in Building 73, Orr st South Carlton 10am to 4 pm .
To view the Lie Nielsen Australia website please click here.
Also at the show will be Chris Vesper, who makes the best squares and sliding bevels that money can buy, as well as Julian Pratt and lots of demonstrations.
With special show pricing you’ll certainly be able to get a few bargains
I’ll be popping town on Saturday afternoon so we may catch up there.
I just thought I’d post a few photos from an upcoming e-book that I’m working on. Covering all aspects of the Festool OF1010, it also will include specialist sections on template work and trammel routing. The attached photos will give you an idea of some of the things you do with the 1010.
The frame is made from a pine panel which I had left over from another project was made with an OF1010 with a Festool trammel accessory
I’d love to know what you think so please feel free to post a comment or drop me an email.
Today we’re going to have a look at a relatively new tool from Festool’s sister company Protool. The SSP 200 EB is a bit of an unusual beastie and I remember the the first time saw it I was a bit perplexed by it.
The SSP is in essence, a chain saw that’s mounted onto a circular saw base. It has a maximum cutting depth of 200mm (about 8 inches) and it runs along standard Festool or Protool, guide rails for accuracy and ease of cut.
Its not a tool that you have to have but if you’re regularly cutting sleepers, timber beams, or LVL, (laminated veneered lumber) boards or girders, the SSP is guaranteed to make your life easier
Designed for cutting large beams the SSP which weighs in at only 6.5 KG ( 14 Pound) is a lot easier and safer option than circular saws with a comparable cutting depth such as the Protool CSP 165 which weighs in at 22kg, (48 pounds)
I’ve used both the CSP 165 and the SSP extensively and, personally i’d now always choose the SSP over a large and heavy circular saw.
When docking beams to length with the SSP you can tilt the blade forwards at a 10 degree angle which exposes more blade to the timber and gives you a proportionately faster cut. The maximum mitre angle on the SSP is 60 degrees and when used on a guide rail will pivot on the scribe line in the same manner as a TS 55 or TS 75 will.
Lets have a look at the features of the SSP;
2, Fast Fix Blade Changing
3, Guide Slot for Guide Rail
4, Mitre Angle indicator
5, Tool less chain tension adjustment
6,Tool Less chain lubrication
7,MMC, (constant speed under load) electronics
8, Bar oil level indicator
9, Dust Extractor Connection
10, Auxiliary Handle
11, Clearly visible cut indicator.
Not being a major fan of chainsaws, I must admit to being a bit nervous when using the SSP for the first time but, within 5 minutes I was as happy as a pig in …….., and had chopped up a large beam into small pieces before I realised it. When connected to a CT26 dust extractor, with the 36mm hose about 2 thirds of the dust was collected leaving only a relatively small amount to clean up.
Click below to watch a video of the SSP in action.
As you can see from the video there is plenty of different applications for the SSP. Ive used it on both softwoods an Australian Hardwoods and found that it didn’t struggle with either of them.
No review of the SSP would be complete without giving you the chance to watch the Official Protool film on the SSP. Its the first Big Budget advert for a power tool that I can remember seeing in a long time.
Well I hope you enjoyed that.
As always, your comments and questions are appreciated.
Just about to be released onto the Australian and New Zealand markets, the new 240 volt PDP from Festool’s sister company Protool is surely be well accepted by trade and serious DIY users alike. Inspired by the old Protool PDP 20 this new model takes advantage of technological improvements and is fitted with a brushless EC-TEC (electronically commutated – technology ) motor, the same style as those found in the Protool cordless PDC 18 and the Festool T series drills and impact drivers.
The result is a tool with amazing speed and power. A four speed gearbox, similar to that on the hugely successful PDC 18 volt cordless drill, gives the PDP 20 a top speed of 4000 rpm in top gear and a low speed of 400 rpm in its lowest gear which is perfect for all those high torque applications.
The specs for both the PDP 20 hammer drill and its brother the DRP 18 Drill Driver are shown below.
Both drills feature the fast – fix chuck system and come with the unique and highly effective centrotec chuck as standard. The drills should be available as either standard or set configuration with a heavy duty right angle drive being included in the set version.
Please see below ‘for more features on the tools.
1: Fast Fix Interface, (comes with centrotec chuck)
2: Four Speed Gearbox, (400 to 4000 rpm)
3: Brushless EC-TEC Motor
4: Inbuilt Work-light
5: Magnetic holder for tips and drills
6: Inbuilt Belt Clips
7: Constant Speed Electronics.
I had a chance to have a play with the new PDP 20-4 at the recent tradesman’s expo in Melbourne and was blown away by its performance. Coming in at around 2 kg it doesn’t seem possible for a drill this light to have this much power, when it comes to using the tool in timber and concrete it doesn’t disappoint.
I’m hoping to get my hands on a test model soon so stay tuned for a full review.
In the mean time please drop me an email or post a comment if you have any questions.