Calibrating The TS55R Blade

Five Minutes With Festool – The TS55

Let’s assume that we’ve just had a blade sharpened and we need to check the calibration between the cutting depth and the depth scale. Remember that when a  saw blade is sharpened, you invariably lose a small amount of the blade diameter. After one sharpen it may not be noticeable, but after two or three sharpens there can be a  variation in your cutting depth.

 This method can also be used to fine tune the cutting depth if you’re using the saw on a different brand of guide rail, (not that I’d recommend that), as there can be a variation in the standard 5mm thickness between brands. 

To calibrate the blade on a TS55R, place the base of the saw on a piece of paper (A4 copy paper is ideal), on a  flat, smooth surface and set the depth guide to zero. As we’re not on the guide rail make sure you use the unmarked indicator rather than the FS indicator.

Set To Zero
Depth Gauge set to zero. Note the blade calibration knob to the right of the FS mark.
Fully Plunged, note the plunge stop resting on the calibration knob.

Once set, gently plunge the saw down until it stops and look to see if the tips of the blade are touching the paper

Blade too high
Blade too high

Adjust by turning the calibration knob on the top of the saw until the tips of the blade just touch the piece of paper and you’re done.

Blade Set
Blade set correctly



A good habit to get into is to periodically check this to make sure that your TS55 is working at its best at all times. 

I hope you found this “Five minutes with Festool” useful and as always your questions and comments are appreciated.

Have fun and be safe,



Festool, technique, training, TS55R, cool tools, blades, woodwork, power tools,

My Cordless Mitre Saw

The Nobex Proman

Sometimes you don’t need a power cord……..

During my recent break from the Monday to Friday job I was able to get enough time to cross another project off my very long home renovation to do list.

When we moved in to our current abode we were faced with the problem of bugger all space in the pantry, so in the tried and true fashion of woodies everywhere I set to work one weekend and constructed a large addition to the existing pantry.

With six large sliding drawers and six fixed shelves and constructed from melamine coated MDF, the new unit was spacious, but with the MDF edges of the carcass and drawers visible it was butt ugly. My intention was to clad the exposed edges and drawer faces in solid timber but as with all good intentions they can sometimes get a bit delayed.

That was three years ago…….

Fast forward to 2012 and with free time on my hands and about 100 lineal meters of recycled  Sydney Blue Gum floorboards to play with, I plunged headlong into the task at hand.

Once I’d made the drawer faces I ripped the trim to about 2mm larger all round then hand planed it to the required size.

I did a couple of test cuts with my Bosch mitre saw but as Sydney Blue Gum is fairly brittle and my saw blade was a bit coarse the end result was not brilliant. Rather than go out and spend $100+ on a new 80 tooth blade I turned to old faithful, my Nobex Proman mitre saw.

I bought this saw over 12 years ago when I was making a lot of bespoke picture frames, (that’s another story), and it’s never let me down. With a 32 tpi blade fitted it  made short work of all the capping and trim for this project.

The Nobex is perfect or when you need to  get up close and personal to the without risking life and limb, or as shown above you  need only to trim a small amount off.

To watch a video of the Proman please click here.

If you’re interested and want to find out more information about where to get a Proman, please click here.

Thats all for now guys,

As always, your comments and questions are appreciated



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